# Advice? Cat urinating on clothes.



## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

We have a household of 3 cats one female and two males. The most recent adult male came to us from a deceased friend about 2 years ago. He has recently started to urinate in odd places most notably on clothes which are on the floor and throw rugs. He knows where the litter box is and defecates there and urinates there but he likes to sometimes urinate in other places. He is altered and declawed.
Last evening he walked from the bedroom down the hall to a shoe box on the floor which he decided to urinate in. Today my daughter walked from her bedroom to the bathroom where she was getting dressed and the cat urinated on her clothes she was about to put on.
I have watched the cat go into a room right next to the litter box to urinate on a throw rug. We have one box for three cats.

Nothing has changed in the case of litter size. Behavior wise he is a rather "chicken" cat and hisses at the dog and the established male cat. But he has been getting along with them (not best buddys but..) in the past.

I'm kind of fed up with him. He has been difficult to integrate and I am afraid that I may have to just restrict him to one room of the house for the rest of his life. 

Thoughts advice?


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## MowMow (Nov 6, 2010)

It could be a number of things.
1) Uti - has he been to the vet to rule out medical issues? Moving into a new home, losing his person and having new cats/dog to deal with are incredibly stressful. That could cause a urinary tract infection.

2) He is declawed, this added on top of the stress above and KNOWING he has no way to defend himself against other cats/dogs is very stressful.

3) One litter box for 3 cats is really not enough. Especially if he wasn't used to sharing. How often are you cleaning the box. He may not feel it's clean enough.

Since he's been there this long and the peeing JUST started I'd rule out the vet first. Then add more litterboxes and be more diligent in cleaning them.


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

1) Uti - has he been to the vet to rule out medical issues? Moving into a new home, losing his person and having new cats/dog to deal with are incredibly stressful. That could cause a urinary tract infection.
_This is a *new* behavior and he has been here for 2 years now so I would hope he has gotten over the moving stress? But no I have not taken him to the vets yet, I guess I need to rule that out. He shows no behavioral signs of a problem._

2) He is declawed, this added on top of the stress above and KNOWING he has no way to defend himself against other cats/dogs is very stressful.
_He came declawed and I understand your point. He sees threat in the dog but the dog is small and not interested in the car at all. The other male established cat will occasionally stalk him, and I see your point._

3) One litter box for 3 cats is really not enough. Especially if he wasn't used to sharing. How often are you cleaning the box. He may not feel it's clean enough. _The house only has one area for a litter box but we may have to look harder and include another box somewhere else, perhaps he can claim it for himself but I bet the other two cats will also use it._

Since he's been there this long and the peeing JUST started I'd rule out the vet first. Then add more litter boxes and be more diligent in cleaning them.

_Thanks for the advice. I think I will try a new box and the vets visit. I Just took in the established male for a blood test and found a thyroid problem that was $175 so Vets can be rather expensive. I can get my blood test for half that ammount for humans! But I will start there and add the box and see if it helps. Thanks again._


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## catloverami (Jul 5, 2010)

The usual recommendation for litter boxes is 1 per cat +1. The fact that he's a somewhat timid cat, this is his way of asserting himself in a new household with another male and possibly dominant female cat. Besides the extra litter boxes, preferably in other locations that are quiet and out of the way (e.g. corner, but not near noisy machine like a clothes dryer or washer), with a cat that wants and has developed a preference for peeing on clothes, you have to pick up any clothes at all off the floor, so he can't pee on them...everything hung up or in a drawer or in a closed laundry hamper. You can't give him any opportunity to pee on clothes; otherwise it will be a very difficult job, if even it can be, to correct. Give him every opportunity to use the litter boxes which should be scooped 2x/day. Hope you can get on top of this behavior before it's become too engrained. Good luck!


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

catloverami said:


> The usual recommendation for litter boxes is 1 per cat +1. The fact that he's a somewhat timid cat, this is his way of asserting himself in a new household with another male and possibly dominant female cat. Besides the extra litter boxes, preferably in other locations that are quiet and out of the way (e.g. corner, but not near noisy machine like a clothes dryer or washer), with a cat that wants and has developed a preference for peeing on clothes, you have to pick up any clothes at all off the floor, so he can't pee on them...everything hung up or in a drawer or in a closed laundry hamper. You can't give him any opportunity to pee on clothes; otherwise it will be a very difficult job, if even it can be, to correct. Give him every opportunity to use the litter boxes which should be scooped 2x/day. Hope you can get on top of this behavior before it's become too engrained. Good luck!


Female cat in the house is passive and they are great friends, sleeping together and such. The other male who is 15 can tolerate him but does occasionally stalk him. Problem cat is also peeing on throw rugs which is not easily removed and washed. I have watched his behavior and he will use the inappropriate location without the slightest regard. He looks very casual as if he is too lazy to go to the correct location. I will try the additional litter box probally first as I see no overt medical signs of stress and the box is something that can go into play quickly.


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## catloverami (Jul 5, 2010)

You might also try a different litter; _Dr. Elsey's Cat Attract litter_ has been used with good results by myself and other posters to attract cats back to the litter box when they start peeing elsewhere. It is more expensive than regular litter, and sometimes you can get results just by "dressing the top" of regular clumping clay litter with the _Dr. Elsey's_ stuff.


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## depaul1203 (Apr 1, 2012)

Had that problem we just added a another box and all is good. so really try a another box and make sure it is clean. " _We have one box for three cats."_ soo not enough for 3 cats


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## sandyrivers (Apr 9, 2012)

Hi,

I must agree about the number of litter boxes, each cat needs his own, and an extra one.

Is he a large cat? Maybe he finds the litter box too small?

What type of box/boxes do you have? some cats prefer covered boxes, and other cats prefer the ''open concept''.

Perhaps you can try a different type of litter in each box! 

Some cats prefer the regular ''old school'' clay litter, other cats like the clumping/scoopable type...some cats won't use the scented litter while others don't mind it... some cats won't go near a litterbox that has a plastic lining! 

There are other types of litter made from all sorts of materials, you may want to experiment with a few and see which he prefers.

At my place we use regular old school clay ''saular'' , a brand called ''feline pine'', and a brand called ''yesterdays news''. None of my cats like the clumping/scoopable litter, they simply did not use the litter box that was filled with it...

At my place (I have 8 cats), some litter boxes are used exclusively for peeing, while others are used exclusively for pooing... while others serve for both! ...go figure...

Cats can be a bit fussy about their litter/bathroom habits, but it's really worth trying many type of litter boxes and many types of litter box fillers.

I'm sure if you try many alternatives, your cat will finally find the one he prefers and USE it!

I am just wondering, since I don't think you mentionned it in your post... is your cat neutered? If not, then this could be the very reason you are having problems...

Please keep us updated on the situation!

sandyrivers


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

This is where I am at now.
We now have two boxes in the house. Both is quiet undisturbed places. The "new" cat has stopped eliminating on clothing probally because nothing is available for him to do so. He also liked to soil throw rugs but that behavior seems to have dropped off since the addition of the second box.

His new thing is to walk up to the clean or slightly used box and urinate right in front of it on the floor.

Both boxes are covered types so I removed the tops to see if this had any effect. It did not.

After he urinates I scrub the area down with bleach killing all odor and wait for it to completely dry before allowing any cat to return. Older female and male have no problems and never "miss"

I placed a rubber mat around the box the kind that is in front of your door so that the litter would get stock on it but he just pees on that too. Now iI have removed that and the box sits on vinyl floor.

I have used Dr Elsey's Litter attractant to no measurable influence on him.

I have watched him walk to the box and walk away to a heavy mat that is sitting in front of a near by door that leads outside and he will lye down and scratch and then urinate on the mat. I have cleaned that mat with bleach as well.

Vet says there is no medical reason for this.

Any suggestions? 

I took this cat in for a friend that was dying of cancer and his dying wish was that the cat would be treated like family but never disclosed to me that the cat had any quirks or problems. I'm disgusted with this cat.


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## Jacq (May 17, 2012)

Peeing right in front of the box is an obvious territory marking. He's saying "this box is MINE."

Do the other cats use it or is it him alone? Also, he might be nervous of the box, if the 15 yo dominant cat is stalking him while he's doin' his business.

Hopefully someone can help you get passed this. Most cat "quirks" have very solid cat-reasoning behind them, and it's just our job to figure out what's causing the problems and fix them.


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## MowMow (Nov 6, 2010)

What tests did the vet do to rule our medical issues?


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## Mitts & Tess (Sep 4, 2004)

Piddle Program | Hermitage Cat Shelter

Cats hate change. It is hard to tell if a cat is stressed. Usually the marking behavior is one of the signs! Another strike against him is he is declawed. Vets won’t tell you but one of the results of declawing is inappropriate marking.

I didn’t know how brutal declawing is and had my first cat declawed. When he is stressed he does pee on things. I’ve had him pee on the floor right in front of me to let me know how unhappy he was. I had way too many foster Kittens & cats at the time.

I would use Feliway plug in dispensers’ to help calm him down. Best to put them by the areas where he has peed. Make sure you use an enzyme cleaner to clean up his marked spots.


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

Jacq said:


> Peeing right in front of the box is an obvious territory marking. He's saying "this box is MINE."
> 
> Do the other cats use it or is it him alone? Also, he might be nervous of the box, if the 15 yo dominant cat is stalking him while he's doin' his business.
> 
> Hopefully someone can help you get passed this. Most cat "quirks" have very solid cat-reasoning behind them, and it's just our job to figure out what's causing the problems and fix them.


The 15 year old has stopped all of the stalking and ignores the "new" cat. The 15 year old has his own food station that the others do not use. The female the ruler in the sense that if she approaches food the other two males let her come in and eat first. She is very passive in the sense that any new animal in the house she greets by rubbing and purring on them. Including the 35 pound dog. 
Dog steers way clear of "new" cat that always greets dog with a hiss. 
Vet checked for any blocking and said there is no reason for his behavior but he is a cat and they can be very quirky.
"New" cat is a little older and usually sits next to a human on the couch, never really see him "play" He likes sunning and sleeping and watching us humans go about our lives.

The plus is he uses the box to defecate and he must urinate into it some time because I have found no other soiled areas. He has never relieved himself under a bed but he did like throw rugs, or plastic grocery bags.
As my friend was dying he kept his box in a shower stall. It is possible that he could "miss" and no one would know the difference. I have seen him in the box urinating but not squatting, so the urine just hits the surrounding wall.


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## Xanti (Nov 4, 2008)

Urinating without squatting will probably be marking..is he fixed?


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

If I did not mention he is declawed and neutered.
He has been that way for a long time.


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## Galathiel (Feb 6, 2012)

Also just cleaning with bleach does not eliminate the odor from the cat's standpoint. You will need an enzyme cleaner for that like Simple Solution or Nature's Miracle.


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## hoofmaiden (Sep 28, 2009)

What food (brand and dry or canned?) does he eat?

Please read this in its entirety: Feline Urinary Tract Health: Cystitis, Urethral Obstruction, Urinary Tract Infection by Lisa A. Pierson, DVM :: cat urinary tract health . Note that sometimes bloodwork and urinalysis will be "normal" but the cat can still have urinary tract issues.

I would (1) get the bloodwork and urinalysis done, but don't assume that there is no medical problem if they come back clean (and ignore the vet if he tries to put cat on "prescription" food); (2) get more litterboxes; (3) confine him to 1 room w/ 2 LBs (and plenty of attention) for a week or 2; and (4) and use Dr. Elsey's Cat Attact litter ( Cat Attract | Precious Cat Litter )for the next few months at least; and (5) switch all the cats to high quality carb-free CANNED food (such as EVO 95% meat formulae ( Healthy Pet Product Search ? Organic Dog Food, Dog Treats and More ? Natura Pet Products )).


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

Female Vet. If the tests show nothing then how do I convince the vet that there is something wrong?

Dry food only - IAMS Proactive Health Digestive Care.

Have used Dr Elsey's for 2 months now. Appears to have no effect.


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## Leni (Sep 21, 2010)

My cat Sherlock had the same issue and he ended up having a urinary blockage and almost dying. I switched him to 95% wet food (not 100% because my husband gets home before I do sometimes and is too lazy to feed him wet) and he hasn't had problems in over 2 months. My vet didn't find anything wrong either, thought it was stress related due to our recent move and loud roofers on the ceiling. He has no issues with urinating outside the box now. Every cat is different, but maybe you should try switching to wet and see what happens.


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## hoofmaiden (Sep 28, 2009)

v194 said:


> Female Vet. If the tests show nothing then how do I convince the vet that there is something wrong?


You don't. You just switch to canned carb-free food (READ THE ARTICLE!), which you should do regardless. But get the testing done b/c if there IS an infection it neesd to be treated. If crystals show up and the vet wants to put kitty on prescription food, you can just decline.


> Dry food only - IAMS Proactive Health Digestive Care.


Honestly, more than likely this is your main problem. Read the article.


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## Leni (Sep 21, 2010)

^ This. My vet recommmended Purina prescription wet, which i tried one can of and Sherlock hated, so we're on to EVO 95% beef, which is his favorite. You may have to play around with different flavors, but honestly, it's worth it not having urinary issues.


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## MowMow (Nov 6, 2010)

Not to mention being incredibly aggravated at an animal that is only trying to tell you that it is in pain...in the only way it can.

It may be behavioral but it seems important to absolutely rule out medical before punishing for something that can't be helped.


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

EVO is not available in my area. Other suggestions?


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## hoofmaiden (Sep 28, 2009)

v194 said:


> EVO is not available in my area. Other suggestions?


You can order it.

Pet Food Online | Dog & Cat Supplies & Products | PetFoodDirect.com

You could also feed raw--that's evern better than canned food. Come on over to the raw sub-forum and we'll help you w/ that.


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

Hopefully looking for something I can start on tonight. Suggestions for canned. Not interested in RAW.


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

I have fed Taste of the wild and Blue Buffalo and Natural Balance dry and all of the cats will eat it but they dont really care for the Blue Buffalo.


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## hoofmaiden (Sep 28, 2009)

Why do people capitalize raw (RAW) as if it's an acronym? LOL.

The simple fact is that almost ANY canned food is better than any dry food. Did you read the link I posted? Here's more on food from the same site (by a vet):

Feeding Your Cat: Know the Basics of Feline Nutrition :: healthy cat diet, making cat food, litter box, cat food, cat nutrition, cat urinary tract health

Start w/ anything canned you can find and then try to move to the better canned foods (Evo 95%, Wellness CORE). But for starters, just buy canned food. If your kitty will eat it this way, add a little warm water to it as well, just to get more water in there ASAP.


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

Yes I did read the article but honestly its one Vets opinion and I can find dozens (with stealer credentials) who will contradict her. Having said this
I'm willing to try anything and I want to start the trail right away.


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## hoofmaiden (Sep 28, 2009)

v194 said:


> Yes I did read the article but honestly its one Vets opinion and I can find dozens (with stealer credentials) who will contradict her. Having said this
> I'm willing to try anything and I want to start the trail right away.


MOST vets will contradict her b/c MOST vets are not trained in nutrition at all. What they do know is courtesy of Hills (the Science Diet people) b/c Hills wrote the textbook used in most vet schools and donated millions of $$ a year to them for chairs, scholarships, etc. I would never ask any of the vets I've used (however good they are in other ways) for nutritional advice--and cat urinary problems are almost entirely caused by cat food.

Dr. Pierson actually took the time to educate herself in these matters. 99.9% of vets do not.

It is FACT that domestic cats are descended from desert cats and FACT that they have a poor thirst drive as a result. It's also FACT that until 50 years ago cats ate small mammals and birds almost entirely. Pet food is a very new invention and the main problems that cats present with at veterinary clinics (urinary tract problems, kidney failure, diabetes, cancer, etc.) have all been linked to diet.

A book by another vet who took the time to educate herself--this is an excellent read:

Amazon.com: Your Cat: Simple New Secrets to a Longer, Stronger Life (9780312358020): Elizabeth M. Hodgkins: Books


There is a lot in there on why canned/raw is the only way to go.


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## librarychick (May 25, 2008)

*We posted at the same time, and I agree completely with hoofmaiden. Vets are taught incorrect info because pet food companies sponsor vet schools. It isn't entirely their fault, but unless a vet has made an effort to educate themselves outside of that system I don't give their oppinions much more value than that of your average pet store employee.



v194 said:


> Yes I did read the article but honestly its one Vets opinion and I can find dozens (with stealer credentials) who will contradict her. Having said this
> I'm willing to try anything and I want to start the trail right away.


Now this I can do!

Cat Food 101: What You Need to Know About Feeding Your Cat

“The worst culprit is free feeding dry food,” Pierson says. “It’s like setting out a bowl of Doritos for your child to chomp on all day.”

And, no surprise here: dry cat foods are a little dry. Pierson tells WebMD that dry cat foods typically contain between 5% and 10% water, while canned foods are about 78% water. Water is a critical nutrient that helps with digestion, circulation, and other bodily processes.

So why not just keep the water bowl filled up? Although there isn’t 100% agreement on this, some studies show that cats are less sensitive to thirst and dehydration. Cats fed a diet of dry food may ultimately consume about half the water that cats eating wet food do. This can contribute to concentration of minerals in urine leading to serious problems with the urinary tract.


Why Cats Need Canned Food | Little Big Cat

Dry food is very dehydrating. Our feline friends descend from desert-dwelling wild cats who are well adapted to limited water resources. Their ultra-efficient kidneys are able to extract most of their moisture needs from their prey. However, the end result is that cats have a very low thirst drive, and will not drink water until they are 3-5% dehydrated (a level at which, clinically, a veterinarian would administer fluid therapy). Cats eating only dry food take in only half the moisture of a cat eating only canned food. This chronic dehydration may be a factor in kidney disease, and is known to be a major contributor to bladder disease (crystals, stones, FUS, FLUTD, cystitis). Caution: adding water or milk to dry food does not solve the problem; and the fact that there are always bacteria on the surface of dry food means that adding moisture can result in massive bacterial growth–and a very upset tummy.


ASPCA | Wet and Dry Cat Food

Both wet and dry products can be nutritionally complete, Meredith, if they are high-quality pet foods appropriate for your pet's life stage and nutritional requirements. Wet food contains higher protein levels, decreased carbohydrate levels and a higher water content—up to 78 percent, compared to 10 percent in dry food. However, dry foods can safely be left out all day without spoiling.* When it comes down to it, water is the most important nutrient. So whether you feed your pet wet or dry food, fresh water should be made available all day.

Since water intake is particularly important for cats with constipation, diabetes, kidney disease and tendencies toward crystal formation, feeding a diet high in water can be especially beneficial for cats with these conditions. In addition, increased protein levels may be beneficial for overweight and diabetic cats. However, it is generally acceptable for a pet without any of these health concerns to primarily eat dry food.

* I find it hilarious that this article basically says the only 'health benefit' to dry food is that it can sit out all day...which isn't a benefit it's just easier for you...lol.


Adult Cat Food: Canned vs. Dry and Feeding Schedule

But the high moisture content in wet food can be beneficial to cats with urinary tract problems, diabetes, or kidney disease. It can help compensate for cats’ low thirst drive, which may be partly due to their evolution as desert animals. More study is needed to confirm whether feeding wet food can help prevent some of these problems from developing in the first place.

There, lots more vets who agree with us 

Even if you can't find EVO there are other good brands out there to try. Wellness, Wellness CORE, Blue Buffalo, and many others. Since I feed raw like hoofmaiden I don't know too many brands, but other people here do and they talk about them lots. Check through some of the other canned food threads here and you'll get quite a list of good brands to check out, some of which won't break the bank either.

One last thing; it seems to me like peeing in front of the box might be a few other things no one has mentioned. 

1) He doesn't think it's clean enough. Regardless of how clean YOU think it might be. There are two possible solutions, clean the boxes more and add a few extras.

2) He's missing. Have you seen him pee outside of the box? If not then it may very well be this. Both of my boys sometimes forget to turn around, and end up peeing out the door. Technically they are in the box...but they miss. I've mostly solved this by repurposing two huge storage totes into litter boxes. The cats all love them, and they stay cleaner because there's more litter in them, plus since the sides are so high the boys can't miss!


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

2) He's missing. Have you seen him pee outside of the box? If not then it may very well be this. Both of my boys sometimes forget to turn around, and end up peeing out the door. Technically they are in the box...but they miss. I've mostly solved this by repurposing two huge storage totes into litter boxes. The cats all love them, and they stay cleaner because there's more litter in them, plus since the sides are so high the boys can't miss! 

I'm not going to comment on the Vet aspect anymore. I have been involved with Vets and veterinary schools with canines for over 40 years (I am a triple major) so I have a good deal of background on this subject and you are right about some of it. I am disappointed that the article quoted does not reference any imperial studies to back up her claims. Either Way I am willing to try the wet food method to see if this might help out.

In reference to the box size I have done the same thing today and increased the size and height of the box so the car while standing should not miss. This might be an issue I have seen what looks like this might be a problem in at least one case.

Fingers crossed as I try some new suggestions. Hopefully I will get some more suggestions on canned feed as I now have Friskies (all below the suggested 10% Carbohydrates)


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## marie73 (Jul 12, 2006)

If you want to talk about food, please start a thread under Health & Nutrition. Let's keep this thread on topic, behavior.


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## doodlebug (May 13, 2006)

The piece if info that jumps out at me is the "new" cat has been with you for 2 years, yet he is still hissing at the dog and until recently also the incumbent male. That screams uncomfortable, stressful situation to me. Whether that stress is causing urinary tract issues or whether he's marking is anybody's guess since his urinalysis is clean (it is still possible for him to be inflamed without infection). 

Does he have a safe place where the dog can't get to? Giving him a place he can go that he knows is safe may help relax him. He should have a litter box in his safe space. Try giving him some calming remedies...Feliway diffusers, Rescue Remedy, Pet Naturals of Vermont or NaturVet calming treats, you could even try a Thundershirt. 

You mentioned cleaning with bleach and several people responded that you need to clean with an enzyme cleaner, you didn't mention if you did that. It's important, otherwise the scent lingers, even if you can't smell it...he can. There's a great sticky about cleaning urine stains. 

And the most important thing is to be patient with him. He's trying to tell you that there's something wrong in his world the only way he can. If you get mad at him, he will pick up on it and it will only make things worse. So, while it may be difficult...be patient, observe him, watch what's going on when he goes outside the box...what is the situation, where are the other animals, what are they doing? Document the circumstances of each incident and when he uses the box...you may start to see a pattern.


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## v194 (Apr 26, 2011)

Thanks
The dog avoids the cat at all costs, never approaches him or even looks at him. The dog is scared of the cat in essence. The cat will retreat up to a second floor bonus room to sleep and lie in the sun during the day with the female cat. By the late afternoon they both come down to see the humans. 
Nothing stands out behavior wise when I see him urinating, I am always finding it after it is completed. When I did catch him 2 times, one he was scratching on a door mat 6 feet from the box. After he scratched he just started to urinate. The other time he stopped in front of the box and never entered but urinated on the wall while standing in front of the box.

I guess Feliway might be next on the list.

In my mind he would rather be a single cat in a home like he was with his past master. When my friend was well they would play rather roughly, now that his master is gone he is not aggressive nor plays aggressive but rather sleeps a lot while sitting next to the humans. He has full access to the house just as all of the cats do.

Right now the only problem is the urinating near or next to the box. We seem to have eliminated all other problem urination spots.


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## Cat'sHouse (Apr 5, 2012)

Wow, talk about covering all bases. Seems like you have read and considered all or most of the advice given. I don't have much more to add other than I had a problem with Eliza (19 yrs old) now. It seems that at one time she for some unknown reason (to us) would seek out my sweaty clothes and sometimes piddle on them. Or a rug....not always but sometimes. Wife said it was because she was mad at me cause mine were the only clothes she picked. I didn't buy that but every once in awhile I grab an old work tshirt and can smell the trace of pee in it even tho it was washed with vinegar. so, I throw them out. At the time we had her fellow male cat (2 yrs younger) and Kermit (now 10)....could it have been a kermit influence? Didn't seem likely.

but I made peace with Eliza and paid more attention to her and less to young Kermit and the peeing stopped. I have always had at least one liter box per cat and now that I took in a stray young female I had to increase the size of one liter box. Eliza is older and less active and she spends most days/nights in our computer room where the wife spends a lot of her day. but for some reason the liter box in there got to be a communal one and someone was missing the box so I put it up against two walls and set the 20lb clumping liter container on the end and something else along the other side with an opening for them to enter and exit. that seemed to work. I got one of those liter boxes that have the three inserts so it is easier to sift by merely lifting the top insert out and shake it and then remove it somewhere to rinse off and set to wait for the other two to get used. that helps make the job easier.

I also have a liter maid that when I clean it I spray the pan with furniture polish or sometimes put a layer of car wax on it. Makes the urine not stick as much. I will do it with the 3 sifting trays soon. The other liter box is in our bathroom and is an overly large low style one. So far no misses there.

Well, that is how it has worked for me...CC passes away on Mar 30th and we think it was stressful for Eliza as she called out for him for several weeks but has since not done that (I think). Perhaps that is why she is now content to avoid the newbie and Kermit tho she rarely played with other cats. she came to us barely 4wks old and never probably learned play with her liter mates.

I have always heard that once an animal urinates on something, no amount of washing/cleaning/deodorizing will get the smell out so the animal will go back to that item. Guess eliminating throw rugs is what to do or would spraying them with a product that repels work? I never tried that....for our dog long ago I just got rid of all carpet eventually and it was old anyway. she always found that same spot and would do it again. 


No body mentioned it yet but perhaps a home where this cat is the only one in the home would be best for you and the cat tho that decision is yours. 

Good luck.


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